There’s only one way you can mess this cake up, and that’s by putting it into the oven and completely forgetting about it. But actually, I’ve done that too, and it was a little on the dry side but still edible.
Although the recipe requires three eggs, one time I was partway through making the mixture when I realised I had none. So I went ahead and made the cake sans eggs, and it was no different. You’d think that three eggs would make a difference, wouldn’t you? And in many recipes it would. But this cake held together just fine, in true stoic fashion.
This last escapade in the kitchen unfolded in a similar way; this time I had neither lemon nor almond essence, and I know just enough about baking to know not to try ‘peppermint essence’ just because it’s in a similar bottle. So I left that out and… whaddayaknow… still tastes the same to me.
Here it is, the haven’t-yet-failed
SULTANA CAKE
- 2 C sultanas
- 250g butter, chopped in small pieces
- 2 C sugar
- 3 eggs, beaten
- 1/2 tsp lemon essence or almond essence
- 3 C standard plain flour
- 1 1/2 tsp baking powder
Preheat the oven to 160C. (I don’t know why more recipes don’t put this bit first.)
Put sultanas in a pyrex jug, cover with boiling water, then cook in the microwave for 10 minutes. (This is a slight modification of the original recipe, which assumes people only have access to saucepans.)
Drain thoroughly. Add butter. (The butter melts into the sultanas. If not, stick it all in the microwave for a bit longer.)
In a bowl, beat sugar into eggs until well combined. Add sultana mixture and essence. Sift flour and baking powder together. Mix sifted ingredients into fruit mixture. Spoon mixture into a greased and lined 20cm square cake tin. (Actually I’ve tried a lot of different sized tins, and they all work.) Bake at 160C for 1 to 1 1/4 hours or until cake springs back when lightly touched. Leave in tin for 10 minutes before turning out onto a wire rack. (I never bother with the wire rack either, but there you go, the proper recipe.)
Here’s the book
Then:

Now:

That, there, is a classic New Zealand the Edmonds Cookery Book.
I used to assume every country had an equivalent cook book. I hadn’t been in London very long when I decided to go to a bookstore and scout out the English equivalent. I went into a WH Smith and said,
“Excuse me, I’m after a cook book with basic English recipes in it, the sort you might find in every household.”
I was told that there is no such thing. I suspect there would have been, before the cook book publishing industry really took off and diversified, but I’m yet to be told what it was.
In contrast, The Edmonds Cookery Book is to be found in almost every New Zealand household, and is full of the sort of recipes your grandmother had memorised: sponges, Russian fudge (do the Russians really eat that much fudge?), tennis cake (who eats cake while playing tennis?), chicken and apple hot-pot, chicken chow-mein (China) – yes, it really says that in brackets, in case you didn’t know.
In New Zealand, you can buy this recipe book from the supermarket, even. You’ll find it in the baking aisle, next to the Edmonds baking powder. I highly recommend this book if your shelf is full of fancy cook books requiring exotic ingredients and entire afternoons in the kitchen. This is cooking at its most basic. The beauty of it is, it doesn’t seem to have been been updated. Ingredients which must’ve been exotic in 1907 are now easily sourced.
Although I’m not going to claim sultana cake as ‘Kiwi Fare’ (I’m sure these recipes mostly come from Britain in the first place), yesterday my husband took a few slices of Edmonds sultana cake to work and gave a piece to a Kiwi workmate of his.
“Is this the Edmonds sultana cake?” asked Murray From Auckland.
“Er, not sure,” my husband replied, but ran it past me when he got home.
“Yes! Yes! It’s the Edmonds cake!” I said, and all at once I was impressed by Murray’s patriotic tastes, and also reminded of the trials and tribulations of intercultural marriage. How could my own husband not know that this is the Edmonds sultana cake? Do I ever make any other kinds of cake?! Other cakes just don’t work out for me!
Now he knows. If I make anything out of a cook book, it’s an Edmonds. I have several copies of the book, partly because one’s covered in cocoa after a kitchen explosion, and partly in case the book ever goes out of print. I’m future-proofing this household against starvation, you see.
EDIT: I jinxed myself. As it happens, you CAN totally stuff this cake up. I’m not sure how, but I think it’s because I left out two cups of sugar.










